WHAT IS DZHULAYA?

by Dimana Trankova; photography by Anthony Georgieff

Bulgarians greet sun on 1 July in celebration that is more hippy than pagan

dzhulaya bulgaria rising sun.jpg

How often do you hum, while driving or doing chores, Uriah Heep's song July Morning? Is it on your Spotify? The answers are probably "never" and "no." Uriah Heep was an English rock band that was formed in 1969, named after Charles Dickens's infamous character. It did make a name for itself in the 1970s, but remained largely unknown.

Not in this country, however. The band was one of the relatively few 1970s groups from the West that penetrated Communist Bulgaria and found an audience hungry for pop and alternative culture. While its fame in the West declined, it turned into a staple for Bulgarians.

Image removed.

As a result, something unforeseen happened: Uriah Heep's hit July Morning inspired a tradition unique to the country, Dzhulay or Dzhulaya. For about 40 years now, Bulgarians have gathered by the sea on the night of 30 June to drink, chat and listen to music with friends until they see the first rays of the sun emerging over the horizon. Then, they greet the sun with... July Morning, of course.

Dzhulay is the feast for what in Bulgaria passes for hippies, and symbolises freedom, spirituality and the beginning of summer.

Who was the first celebrate Dzhulay, and when, is open to speculation . At least two theories circulate, being told and retold by self-proclaimed participants in the original event. What unites them is the location: the waterfront at Varna.

According to one of the accounts, the first Dzhulay was celebrated in 1980 by a bunch of friends who were about to begin their two-year compulsory military service. Hippies to the bottom of their souls, they combined the symbolic beginning of their last "summer of freedom" with a song that seemed quite topical. In the following couple of years no celebrations were held, as most of those involved were in the army. The tradition was revived in 1984.

The second account is also connected with the Bulgarian army. During his military service, a hippie from Varna was on duty the night of 30 June. While he watched the sunrise on the morning of 1 July, Uriah Heep's song was in his head. Overwhelmed with loneliness, both physical and spiritual, the man promised himself that from now on nobody would have to be alone at sunrise on 1 July. After he was discharged, back in Varna, he introduced the idea to some friends who were enthusiastic. The year was 1985. The following 1 July, they replayed the event, and soon the word of Dzhulay spread and dozens of similar-minded people started flocking to Varna.

Image removed.

In both cases Dzhulay appeared as a subtle protest against the Communist regime. How subtle a protest it was is evident by the fact that the authorities did not ban it.

As the popularity of the event grew, the sun revellers diversified and other subcultures joined the hippies. Inevitably, the hippies felt disillusioned. In the early 1990s they moved to an alternative place on the southern Black Sea coast, near the village of Varvara, on the rocks by the so-called Iron Tree, an abandoned movie prop.

Image removed.

This did not stop the mainstream-isation of Dzhulay. The feast attracted more and more people and it gradually moved from Varna to a more picturesque place: the cliffs at Kamen Bryag. In 2004, the rock music-loving, young and ambitious mayor of the nearby town of Kavarna, Tsonko Tsonev, invited John Lawton, Uriah Heep's frontman, to perform the band's emblematic (at least in Bulgaria) song during the sunrise. People were ecstatic. Lawton became a fixture in the "official" celebrations of Dzhulay at Kamen Bryag. His name and the growing popularity of the event turned it into a kind of music festival, attracting a motley crew of rock and hard rock fans, hipsters and people who cannot tell Led Zeppelin from Creedence Clearwater Revival.

As with all new traditions, Dzhulay is still evolving.

Due to friction between the former mayor of Kavarna and his successor, in 2016 the "official" celebration of Dzhulay was moved to Tutrakan, on the Danube River. John Lawton performed there until 2018. In 2021, he died. The following year, his ashes were scattered at sea off Kamen Bryag.

For a number of people, the true spirit of Dzhulay is not in any particular place. The sunrise, they claim, can be celebrated everywhere in the open, if the eastern horizon is clearly visible. You only need stamina, a few drinks and plenty of good company to last through the wee hours, until the sun rises. Playing July Morning is recommended, but not obligatory.

  • COMMENTING RULES

    Commenting on www.vagabond.bg

    Vagabond Media Ltd requires you to submit a valid email to comment on www.vagabond.bg to secure that you are not a bot or a spammer. Learn more on how the company manages your personal information on our Privacy Policy. By filling the comment form you declare that you will not use www.vagabond.bg for the purpose of violating the laws of the Republic of Bulgaria. When commenting on www.vagabond.bg please observe some simple rules. You must avoid sexually explicit language and racist, vulgar, religiously intolerant or obscene comments aiming to insult Vagabond Media Ltd, other companies, countries, nationalities, confessions or authors of postings and/or other comments. Do not post spam. Write in English. Unsolicited commercial messages, obscene postings and personal attacks will be removed without notice. The comments will be moderated and may take some time to appear on www.vagabond.bg.

Add new comment

The content of this field is kept private and will not be shown publicly.

Restricted HTML

  • Allowed HTML tags: <a href hreflang> <em> <strong> <cite> <blockquote cite> <code> <ul type> <ol start type> <li> <dl> <dt> <dd> <h2 id> <h3 id> <h4 id> <h5 id> <h6 id>
  • Lines and paragraphs break automatically.
  • Web page addresses and email addresses turn into links automatically.
Disclaimers

us4bg-logo-reversal.pngVibrant Communities: Spotlight on Bulgaria's Living Heritage is a series of articles, initiated by Vagabond Magazine and realised by the Free Speech Foundation, with the generous support of the America for Bulgaria Foundation, that aims to provide details and background of places, cultural entities, events, personalities and facts of life that are sometimes difficult to understand for the outsider in the Balkans. The ultimate aim is the preservation of Bulgaria's cultural heritage – including but not limited to archaeological, cultural and ethnic diversity. The statements and opinions expressed herein are solely those of the FSI and do not necessarily reflect the views of the America for Bulgaria Foundation or its affiliates.

Подкрепата за Фондация "Фрий спийч интернешънъл" е осигурена от Фондация "Америка за България". Изявленията и мненията, изразени тук, принадлежат единствено на ФСИ и не отразяват непременно вижданията на Фондация Америка за България или нейните партньори.



Discover More

BULGARIA'S WILD ROCKY COAST
Тhe Black Sea is a geographical curiosity. Until recently (in geological terms), it was a big lake locked between Europe and Asia, gorging on the waters of scores of rivers.

FROM GUMOSHTNIK TO THE TITANIC
Small villages and clusters of old, abandoned houses define the Stara Planina mountains around Troyan. Gumoshtnik, whose name is hard to pronounce even for Bulgarians, is one of them.

ST MARINA'S SACRED GROTTO
The path down to the grotto drops steeply through oak and hornbeam. By the time you reach the ravine floor the sky has almost disappeared. The light here is greenish and perpetual, unchanged whether it is morning or afternoon, July or October.

IVANOVO'S NAMELESS CHURCHES
When the names of the churches were forgotten, the villagers gave them new ones. The Letters. God's Gully. The Buried Church. One they called simply The Church, a name so stripped of detail it somehow contains everything that had been lost.

NOT ANOTHER BRICK IN THE WALL
Мanufacturing building bricks and art hardly ever meet.

INTO THE FIRE
Picture this: barefoot men and women in traditional dress, dancing over glowing embers, their faces blank and inward-looking, while a drum and a bagpipe repeat a simple, hypnotic melody that seems to have no beginning and no end.

ANCIENT ROCK HOLES IN SKY
There is a particular quality to the light in the Eastern Rhodope mountains. Low and lateral in the early morning, it makes the cliff faces reveal themselves slowly.

CUCUMBER OF BURGAS
Londoners, especially, will be bemused to discover that decades before Norman Foster designed the world famous Gherkin in the City the workers in the oil refinery of Burgas got their own avant-garde housing project that in more than one way not only predate

ALPHABET THAT CHANGED EUROPE
Few figures in European history have left a cultural footprint as deep and enduring as 9th century saints Cyril and Methodius.

BLACK SEA REVEALED
The Black Sea has been a part of human history since the first Middle Eastern farmers crossed into Europe, about ten millennia ago. Its shores have been inhabited ever since.

SIX AM IN VALLEY OF ROSES...
The truth, as ever, lies somewhere between the postcard and the mud.

SOFIA'S PARTY HOUSE
"Where is the parliament?" A few years ago anyone asking this question in Sofia would have been pointed to a butter-yellow neoclassical building at one end of the Yellow Brick Road.