VARVARA'S IRON TREE

by Dimana Trankova; photography by Anthony Georgieff

Abandoned move prop becomes local curiosity

iron tree bulgaria 4.jpg

Agroup of friends meet each summer at the seaside, a small community who know one another so well that boredom becomes inevitable, and so do internal conflicts. And death. The script of The Big Night Swim, a movie that premiered in 1980, sums up what existential angst and ennui looked like in Communist Bulgaria, or at least in Communist Bulgaria's "intellectual elite." Significantly, the movie was shot at a relatively remote location the village of Varvara.

At the southern Black Sea coast, Varvara is near Turkey. As it is situated somewhat inland and lacks a proper beach, it was never seen as a major tourist spot in the mould of Sozopol and Ahtopol. Despite this – or probably because of it – the village became the darling of Sofia's arty and alternative crowds, which started arriving in the early 1980s. They came here attracted by the remoteness of the place and its dramatic sea cliffs. The most popular of these are the Dardanelite, named after the Dardanelles straits, and the Mekite Skali, or Soft Rocks.

Image removed.

When the film crew that made The Big Night Swim packed their bags and returned to civilization, they left behind something that eventually became a destination on its own: a large metal tree. Now known as the Iron Tree, it stands on the windswept shore over the Dardanelite Rocks, a picturesque and slightly menacing apparition.

Image removed.

For some, it is rather romantic – in the 2010s the Iron Tree became a spot for the Bulgarian celebration of the 1 July sunrise, a tradition that started sometimes in the 1980s and focuses on spending the night, awake, by the sea and playing Uriah Heep's long forgotten hit July Morning when the first rays of the sun appear over the horizon.

Image removed.

As for Varvara itself, in the 2020s the village is not only the realm for latterday hippies and hipsters. The Iron Tree has become a magnet for photographers. You can photograph it day and night, in summer or in wintertime, come rain or come shine. There are no special requirements here with the possible exception of a wide-angle lens. The tree can be seen from low or waits-height angles from all sides. As you have a direct view to the north, this is a good spot for some Polaris photography. Bring a sturdy tripod as it can get very windy by the cliffs.

Image removed.
  • COMMENTING RULES

    Commenting on www.vagabond.bg

    Vagabond Media Ltd requires you to submit a valid email to comment on www.vagabond.bg to secure that you are not a bot or a spammer. Learn more on how the company manages your personal information on our Privacy Policy. By filling the comment form you declare that you will not use www.vagabond.bg for the purpose of violating the laws of the Republic of Bulgaria. When commenting on www.vagabond.bg please observe some simple rules. You must avoid sexually explicit language and racist, vulgar, religiously intolerant or obscene comments aiming to insult Vagabond Media Ltd, other companies, countries, nationalities, confessions or authors of postings and/or other comments. Do not post spam. Write in English. Unsolicited commercial messages, obscene postings and personal attacks will be removed without notice. The comments will be moderated and may take some time to appear on www.vagabond.bg.

Add new comment

The content of this field is kept private and will not be shown publicly.

Restricted HTML

  • Allowed HTML tags: <a href hreflang> <em> <strong> <cite> <blockquote cite> <code> <ul type> <ol start type> <li> <dl> <dt> <dd> <h2 id> <h3 id> <h4 id> <h5 id> <h6 id>
  • Lines and paragraphs break automatically.
  • Web page addresses and email addresses turn into links automatically.

Discover More

BULGARIAN X FILES
From Roswell to Project Blue Book in the United States and Project Condign in the UK, the military have always been interested in finding possible extraterrestrials on planet Earth. The Bulgarian Army is no exception.

BEST OF THE BULGARIAN DANUBE
If there is one river that defines Europe in terms of landscape, history and economy, it is the Danube, a 2,850 kilometre ribbon of water that flows from the Black Forest in Germany to the Black Sea in Romania.

A MAN AND HIS BICYCLE
In the days of overtourism, selfies and Airbnbs there are still hardcore travellers who want to leave the comforts of home and explore new places, people and cultures, even if it often means sleeping in a tent in a remote mountain village.

THE MONKS WHO CHANGED EUROPE
The image of two men, one young and sporting a dark beard and the other older and white-bearded, with books and parchments in their hands, are to be found all over Bulgaria. There are countless statues and posters, church murals and icons.

BULGARIA'S ODDEST MONUMENTS
Оddity, just like beauty, is in the eye of the beholder.

OLD PLOVDIV DELIGHTS
The colourful houses lining the cobblestone streets of Old Plovdiv are arguably the city's most recognisable sight. The only thing that can distract from marvelling at their painted façades, projecting bay windows and verdant gardens is the pavement.

LITTLE GEMS AROUND RUSE
With its pleasant turn-of-the-century houses, Ruse on the Danube is one of the best places to visit in Bulgaria. But if you brave the heavy traffic on the busy and narrow road to Ruse, do not terminate in the city.

BULGARIA'S MOST FASCINATING SPIRITUAL VORTEXES
What comes to mind when you think of energy vortexes? Stonehenge, Machu Picchu and the Great Pyramid in Giza, probably.

TIME OF MARTENITSA
In times of climate change and unpredictable weather, Bulgarians stick almost religiously to celebrating a rite dedicated to the arrival of spring.

SOFIA'S LIONS
Lions have not been seen in the Bulgarian lands since Antiquity or the early Middle Ages, when the last species were hunted down to extinction. And yet, the lion is embedded in the Bulgarian consciousness as a national symbol.

WONDERS OF BULGARIA'S TRADITIONS
Traditions, both ancient and new, define nations and communities. Bulgarians make no exception. A country of diverse cultures and religions, its calendar is peppered with events, festivals and rites that range from cute to curious, even bizarre.

WINTER BLACK SEA
Calm is the last word to describe the Bulgarian Black Sea coast with in summer. Then, the resorts and beaches teem with tourists and suffer from noise and litter. The feeling that you have stumbled into some sort of a din is inevitable.