Mediaeval faces gaze from the walls of churches hewn into steep rocks: a Transfiguration here, a Last Supper there. No, this encounter of past and present is not taking place in faraway Cappadocia of worldwide renown for its odd rock chapels, but here in Bulgaria. About 20 kms from Ruse, the bends of the Rusenski Lom River embrace about a dozen churches and monastic cells hewn into the rock. In the 12th-14th centuries they composed one monastic complex. Today, they are a UNESCO World Heritage site.
One does not make a special effort to visit Tutrakan. Located in an overlooked part of the Bulgarian Danube, this quiet town is nothing to write home about. Or is it?