VAGABOND
Bulgaria’s English Magazine

KRASSIMIRA HRISTOVA: THE PLEASURE OF SMART DRIVING

BULGARIA'S MOST FASCINATING SPIRITUAL VORTEXES

SOFIA'S LIONS

KRASSIMIRA HRISTOVA: THE PLEASURE OF SMART DRIVING

BULGARIA'S MOST FASCINATING SPIRITUAL VORTEXES

SOFIA'S LIONS

KRASSIMIRA HRISTOVA: THE PLEASURE OF SMART DRIVING

Krassimira Hristova and her company, Tsaki, help us enjoy our cars – and protect the environment

BULGARIA'S MOST FASCINATING SPIRITUAL VORTEXES

Bizarre stories, mysterious sightings, supernatural healings make up strange map of Bulgaria

TIME OF MARTENITSA

Bulgarian spring tradition evolves in times of climate change

SOFIA'S LIONS

Majestic animals throughout capital symbolise Bulgarian power and independence

WHERE IN BULGARIA ARE YOU?

One of the best preserved locations of the Bulgarian Revival Period is on the sides of a hill in a major Bulgarian city

WHICH CULTURE INSTITUTION IS LOCATED IN A FORMER ROYAL PALACE?

Think you know Bulgaria and the Bulgarians? Take our test to doublecheck

US vs EU?

How Bulgarians perceive US President's first moves

QUOTE-UNQUOTE

I have never seen a funnier government.

Radostin Vasilev, leader of the MECH, or Sword, party

WONDERS OF THE NORTHWEST

Strange rocks, mesmerising mountains complement ancient stories

TALK OF THE TOWN

GERGANA PAVLOVA: SUSTAINABILITY AND INNOVATION

At Sb Accounting & Consulting change is a way of life – and a key to success
DR ELENA VOEVA: AN INSPIRED CREATOR OF SMILES

Voeva Dental Clinic – a leader in innovation and masterpieces creation
PROF. MIGLENA TEMELKOVA, PHD: A VISIONARY IN EDUCATION

The rector of the UTP is among the leaders of change in higher education
SVETLANA NAYDENOVA: DEDICATED TO PROFESSIONALISM

The managing partner of SETY Auditing on the responsibilities of the registered auditor and financial consultant
METODI MITEV: ZERO WASTE FOR CLEAN ENERGY

There is an effective solution for taking care of the environment – and the economy
GERGANA OBBOVA: THE POWER OF PERSONALISATION

GPTS Print Shop is a standard for quality print and digital advertising – and more
ENGINEER RUMYANA BLAGOEVA: THE SOUL OF NATURAL STONE

Casa Naturale reveals the endless possibilities of this incredible material
ANGELINA BORISOVA: BEYOND THE FRONTIERS OF ACCOUNTING

Anagami Digital Accounting opens new horizons for successful business
SPA COMPLEX KATARINO: PURE BLISS

You deserve the luxury, pleasures and clean food of BULGARIA'S TOP FIVE-STAR MOUNTAIN HOTEL for 2024
INA LAMBEVA: LAWYER OF GOOD CAUSES

Her legal practice knows what to do and how to do it to protect your legal rights
VENELINA VASILEVA: ЕXPERTISE WITH HIGH ADDED VALUE

With Loyal Advisers, a real estate agency, you invest in your future
MIGLENA NIKOLOVA: THE ART OF ASSET APPRAISAL

From real estate to entire industries – Lasto Engineering is a reliable expert in business appraisal
NELLY PAEVA: CARING FOR YOUR BRAIN IS THE KEY TO SUCCESS

HEALTIX uses an innovative approach in taking care of your health and personal development
BRANIMIRA MOMCHILOVA AND KRASIMIRA KOLEVA: TRUST AND PROFESSIONALISM

TOP-DIAGNOSTICS Ltd embodies the future of laboratory diagnostics
STELIYANA YOSIFOVA: THE ENERGY OF GOOD FOOD

Marsio Cookies help us deal with the daily challenges
TANYA TSVETKOVA: THE LESSONS OF SUCCESS

Svetlina Real Estate is a loyal partner and a reliable consultant
ANNA YOTOVA: LOVE YOUR SKIN AGAIN

The first medical tattoo artist in Bulgaria helps us part with our imperfections – for good
IVANKA ANGELKOVA: REAL ESTATE PERFECTION

The Managing Director of Home Life Point on the satisfaction and art of successful property deals
MARIA PETKOVA: IN THE WORLD OF BANK LENDING

Creditchoice Ltd helps us to fund our dreams
NINA GACHEVSKA: BALLET'S SHARED MAGIC

Tiara Ballet Studio inspires love for art, the stage, and beauty

Vibrant Communities

BULGARIA'S MOST FASCINATING SPIRITUAL VORTEXES

WONDERS OF BULGARIA'S TRADITIONS

TOP EXPERIENCES IN THE RHODOPE

EXPLORE OUR BOOKS

Quote-unquote

I have never seen a funnier government.

Radostin Vasilev, leader of the MECH, or Sword, party

FEATURES

BLENDING TRADITIONS

A diplomat family's international Christmas in Bulgaria
IN THE ICY WATERS OF THE SUBANTARCTIC

Elka "Nunio" Vasileva becomes first Bulgarian woman to helm boat in Antarctica
BULGARIA IN ANTARCTICA?

Whereas not too many people in the world know where Bulgaria is and sometimes not even what it is, even fewer would imagine that this country has a more or less permanent presence in... Antarctica
THE VELCHOVA ZAVERA HIKE

Following the footsteps of freedom from Veliko Tarnovo to Velchevo village
LES FRANÇAIS EN BULGARIE

French travellers, diplomats and writers have visited Bulgaria for centuries
BULGARIA'S NEW 'PATRIOTISM'

Sure way to generate media coverage, make some money and win some votes
WHAT WAS THE SEPTEMBER UPRISING?

In 1923, Bulgaria experienced an undeclared, but brutal civil war. Today it is largely forgotten
WHO WAS RENÉ CHARRON?

How a French Jew helped thousands of immigrant Bulgarians in the direst years of the 20th century
REARVIEW MIRROR OF BULGARIA AND AMERICA

State Archives looks at 120 years of diplomatic relations
200 VAGABONDS

Bulgaria's only English language magazine marks 17 years in business
LAPSE OF TIME

Have Bulgarians found new meanings for their Communist-era monuments?
WHY DOES 'SORRY' SEEM TO BE THE HARDEST WORD?

Official Bulgaria continues to eschew responsibility for Holocaust
BULGARIA'S LAST MONARCH

Was King Boris III a man of the people or just a Balkan quisling?
WHO WAS ALEKO KONSTANTINOV?

Creator of 'stock' Bulgarian inspires exploration of national psyche
RUSSIA BRINGS ON... VANGA

Long-dead Bulgarian clairvoyant gets turned into weapon of Kremlin propaganda
FINDING ANTIP KOEV OBUSHTAROV

Early 20th century photographer unveils poignant picture of a lost Bulgaria
MONUMENTAL WOES

Why Sofia's Red Army monument will likely remain standing for long time to come
PREFAB SOCIETY

Will Bulgaria's Communist-era panelki buildings survive into future?
WHO WERE THE BOGOMILS?

Medieval Bulgarian heresy rebels against earthly powers, creating spiritual movement that almost won over Europe
WHO WAS HRISTO BOTEV?

While he was alive, he was considered a troublemaker. Soon after his death, he became a national hero

JOKE OF THE MONTH

TEN TIMES OVER...
The MPs voted once, twice, thrice, four times... and so on, to the bemusement of Bulgarians who watched TV with increasing frustration
WHO IS AFRAID OF JOHN MALKOVICH?
Оne fine evening several dozen angry Bulgarians gathered in front of the National Theatre in central Sofia. They carried flags and banners
98 PERCENT OF CITIZENS GET ALERTED... WITHOUT REALISING IT
"A success by all means," an advisor to the interior minister proclaimed
TOO EARLY IN THE DAY TO TALK ABOUT FISTING
Says Socialist leader
GRANDEUR DISINTEGRATES
No pollster had the slightest idea this would (or could) happen

WHERE IN BULGARIA ARE YOU?

WHERE IN BULGARIA ARE YOU?
WHERE IN BULGARIA ARE YOU?

You are at the bottom of an extinct volcano
WHERE IN BULGARIA ARE YOU?

Bulgaria's various regions abound in local Christmas traditions, but nothing compares to this town south of the Balkan mountain range
WHERE IN BULGARIA ARE YOU?
WHERE IN BULGARIA ARE YOU?

Strangely shaped rock formations of varying sizes hover over a small town: you are in a place of unique beauty
WHERE IN BULGARIA ARE YOU?

Deep in a stunning gorge cutting through the Stara Planina mountain range this Orthodox monastery was supposedly founded in the 14th century
WHERE IN BULGARIA ARE YOU?

Situated in the eastern parts of the Stara Planina mountain range, this village is a perfect picture postcard if you want to know what 19th century Bulgaria looked like
WHERE IN BULGARIA ARE YOU?

Water reservoirs are not typically on tourist bucket lists, but wait till you are well into this mountain range in southern Bulgaria
WHERE IN BULGARIA ARE YOU?
WHERE IN BULGARIA ARE YOU?

Expats in and visitors to Sofia will have noticed the unusual commotion around the huge Red Army monument in the centre of the capital
WHERE IN BULGARIA ARE YOU?

Like most oddly-shaped rocks all over the world, this one has a story attached to it
WHERE IN BULGARIA ARE YOU?

It is believed that lions used to roam the forests of this part of Europe many centuries ago

POLITICS

US vs EU?

How Bulgarians perceive US President's first moves
CIRCUS BULGARIA

Bulgarian MPs prolong impasse ahead of likely snap election next spring
YET ANOTHER STALEMATE

Key takeaways from the Bulgarian general election
SLIDING INTO UNBRIDLED POPULISM

Bulgaria backtracks on legal reforms, human rights
NEW SNAP ELECTION LOOMS ON HORIZON

Constitutional Court decides whether recent changes to basic law were legal
KEY TAKEAWAYS FROM GENERAL ELECTION 2024.0

Voting becomes act of emotion rather than reason
BETWEEN THE FRYING PAN AND THE FIRE

Will Bulgaria become more pro-Russian after general election?
WHY DO SO MANY BULGARIANS LOVE RUSSIA?

Truth, lies, manipulated history and conspiracy theories confound citizens
LIARS OR BEING LIED TO?

Changes Continued may have but limited political future
WITH BOTH EUROS IN THE PAST

Bulgaria's choice of coin design tells of unsolved historical traumas
WHO IS AFRAID OF VASIL 'SKULL' BOZHKOV?

Gambling boss loses bid to sue Former Prime Minister Boyko Borisov over alleged bribes
RUMOURS OF GERB'S DEMISE TURN OUT TO BE PREMATURE

Key takeaways from local elections 2023
CHURCH OF DISCONTENT

One of Sofia's best-known landmarks gets closed over... an alleged spy affair
PP-DB'S FALSE STARTS

Ruling 'fixture' quickly becomes laughing stock
UPS & DOWNS OF BULGARIAN ANTISEMITISM

Failure to face recent past, unbridled hate speech feed continued prejudice
IT'S THE HISTORY, STUPID!

Sofia enters local elections contest on one sole issue: the past
BYE-BYE, IVAN GESHEV

A tale of the skin of a Bulgarian general prosecutor
END OF 'MAFIA STATE'?

Nope. Whitewashing of Boyko Borisov instead
WILL THE DISGUSTED EMBRACE THE DISGUSTING?

Yet another Bulgarian snap election results in yet another Bulgarian stalemate
LONG LIVE RED ARMY MONUMENT!

Stalinist structure in Sofia emerges as central theme in general election campaign

INTERVIEWS

KRASSIMIRA HRISTOVA: THE PLEASURE OF SMART DRIVING

Krassimira Hristova and her company, Tsaki, help us enjoy our cars – and protect the environment
AMITABH VARDHAN AND THE MAGIC OF THE BIG SCREEN

The managing director and CEO of Cine Grand on crafting unforgettable experiences
NATHANIEL COPSEY

British ambassador on cycling, literature and Bulgarian luminosity
METAL COMES TO LIFE IN OUR HANDS!

Nedyalka and Dimitar Mitkovi, founders of MN Design, create objects of strength and beauty
ALEXANDER IGNATOV: MAKING THE MOST OF DIGITAL REVOLUTION

Alexander Ignatov created the digital agency Sky Prime to build strategies for sustainable growth, providing companies with solutions that yield long-term results in the digital space
DR BRANIMIR KIRILOV: COMMITTED TO PATIENTS' WELLBEING

Dr Branimir Kirilov has turned his dental clinic, Medical Dent, into a place you enter with pleasure and leave healthy and happy
MARTIN VASSILEV: CLEAN, CLEANER, KÄRCHER

The Managing Director of Kärcher Bulgaria, on growth and responsibility towards nature and clients
IRENE MARIA PLANK

German Ambassador on Bulgarian wine, the Roman ruins of Serdica and the importance of the Digital Services Act
HOPING FOR HISTORY IN FUTURE

German psychoanalyst Andreas Hamburger develops strong bond to Bulgaria
TATYANA DIMITROVA: THE TRIP(S) OF YOUR LIFETIME

The manager of Randevu Travel, has created a travel agency that knows how to organise an enjoyable vacation in Bulgaria and all over the world
GEORGES FERREIRA: THE ART OF BUILDING INDUSTRIES

The General Manager of GFS Engineering, on modern construction of industrial facilities
IS THE ENERGY CRISIS OVER FOR BULGARIA?

Milena Videnova, CEO of Axpo Bulgaria, contemplates the answer
CHRISTINA LUCAS: EMPOWERING WOMEN PIONEERS IN TECH AND INNOVATION

Christina Lucas has been known to Vagabond readers since we introduced her back in 2018
ANELIYA PARICHKOVA'S FORMULA FOR SUCCESS

The new star of Bulgarian interior design on the importance of perseverance and childhood dreams
GERGANA ATANASOVA: BEING A PART OF THE CHANGE

The manager of G-Energy, on the future of renewable sources of energy
FRENCH AMBASSADOR JOËL MEYER

On why Bulgarians are fond on their history, traditions, food and wine
NATALIA PETROVA: LET'S TALK ABOUT MODERN INVESTMENT

The CEO of Concord Asset Management knows the ins and outs of the capital markets
KATYA MACHUGANOVA: THE GAMES AI PLAYS

The iGaming and digital media professional on the presence and future of games and why does it concern everyone
KENNETH MERTEN

US Ambassador on Bulgarian walks, wine and the need to raise awareness about it
DR VALENTINA IVANOVA: INSPIRING CHILDREN FOR A BETTER FUTURE

The co-founder of Academy Nikola Tesla, is on а mission to prepare kids' for the challenges of tomorrow

BULGARIA'S MONTHLY QUIZ

BULGARIA SOCIETY

OPEN BUZLUDZHA 2024

Contemporary festival brings light to Communist ruin
IS RACISM IN BULGARIA ON THE RISE?

Xenophobic rhetoric intensifies ahead of general, European elections
TRAINING BULGARIA'S YOUTH HOW TO DEBATE

BEST Foundation's tournament takes place in Burgas
BORAT SUBSEQUENT MOVIEFILM AND ITS BULGARIAN CONNECTION

Oscar nomination for domestically unknown actress ignites culture wars
ANGRY SOFIANITES

Sofianites are an angry lot, eagerly expressing their frustration at queues, while driving and especially on social media
IN THE EYE OF THE STORM

I met Dimitrina on 19 October 2018. A woman with bright fuchsia sneakers the sort teenage girls wear and two blood-red scars on her nose.
ARRIVAL CITY

The neighbourhood is a perpetual building site
ABF CELEBRATES BULGARIAN SUPERHEROES

Over 500 representatives people attended the annual meeting of the ABF in Sofia
TRADITIONAL MUSIC AND DANCE

In contrast to the touristy restaurants, folk festivals are a good way to discover some genuine Bulgarian music
WHEN A ROSE IS NOT EXACTLY A ROSE

Attar-bearing roses and beautiful girls in traditional attire picking them dominate the images that Bulgaria uses to sell itself to both Bulgarian and international tourists
DECIPHERING BISHOP'S BASILICA OF PHILIPPOPOLIS

Even the most fascinating archaeological site is just a pile of stones if its history and contexts remain unknown
VERY SUPERSTITIOUS

In 21st century Bulgaria, old superstitions thrive, mixed with beliefs in the supernatural, the extraterrestrial and everything mysterious or conspiratorial
FOR A COUPLE OF LIONS' HIDES

The plight of the duo grabbed the attention of the nation in an unprecedented outpour of sympathy and even cash donations
REMEMBERING 11/11/18

Fighting either with or against the Bulgarians, a number of foreign nationals died in this country and were buried here.
LITTLE HEROES OF PIROGOV

America for Bulgaria Foundation initiates complete transformation of emergency hospital's children's ward
GOING, GOING, (ALMOST) GONE!

The Sofia City Council made a decision to knock down the 1,300 Years of Bulgaria back in the early 2000s, but no one bothered to implement it
EUROPE DAY VS. DAY OF VICTORY

If you think that 14 February is the high point of the Bulgarians' ability to squeeze culturally different feasts into a single day, think again.
BERSERK BELLES OF GRADUATION BALLS

If you are visiting Bulgaria in the second half of May, do not be alarmed by the excited hoards of heavily made-up, eccentrically-dressed teenagers roaming the streets
SWEET POWER OF NOSTALGIA

For a significant number of Bulgarians, Communism was a golden era of prosperity and security
YEAR OF HOLIDAYS

One of Bulgaria's oddest quirks, the Council of Ministers passing decrees every year to "combine" holidays, is about to change.

VAGABOND FICTION

MOTHERS, an excerpt from a novel

She watched her descend the staircase, as though in slow motion, with her second-hand white clothes
FROM FROM THE SKY TO THE EARTH

summer with its easy wins
summer with its plans
SELECTED POETRY

it’s light out I tell you
there’s still lots more
STORY WITH CAKE

This story took place on the New Year’s Eve of my last winter in Bulgaria
LITTLE MONSTIE

There’s someone you have not yet met:
He wears three mittens in crimson red
SAINT WOLF, an excerpt from a novel

The train was coming out of the darkness and rushing back into it, and this was happening so quickly that the darkness seemed endless, especially from behind the compartment window
ADVENTURES IN SQUARELAND, an excerpt from a novel

By dusk, Foxie was over the mountain separating the Tranquil Forest from the rest of the world, and was now walking over hills overgrown with bushes and trees
WE ARE ALL PAGES, an excerpt

“A RETIRED PEDIATRICIAN LOOKING TO MEET a modest and respectful woman. Dad, are you sure about this ad?”
HAIR

She remembered the day she went to the hair salon. She hadn’t dyed her hair in four years, and hadn’t gotten a drastic haircut in three
ÁNNE

Sometimes, Lola and I would take out a bunch of covers and blankets out on the porch and spend the night under the stars
ZOYA

‘You’re so sour-tempered, Gergana’ asserted baba Zoya and kept knitting. ‘As if a lemon wedge is stuck to your tongue.’
WHERE I BELONG

The gulp of winter air fills my lungs with chills, then retreats with a sigh
VANISHING POINT

“I hate her.”
WAR DRUMS

There is a pedestrian tunnel beneath Fourteenth Street, connecting the subway trains at Sixth Avenue with those at Seventh
ISLINGTON

So will things be different, do you think, for us now? She asked this from the bathtub. Her voice was surprising because it was so light.
THE ALPHABET OF SUPPOSITION, an excerpt

When my aunt Fani called me in Chicago from Bulgaria to tell me she had found her brother, my father, dead, lying back across his bed with his right hand over the heart, she chose the inferential mood to relay the news
AN EXCERPT FROM A NOVEL IN PROGRESS

Above my writing desk I had a line from Le temps retrouvé
REMEMBERING NOT FORGETTING, an excerpt

“That was really not necessary,” the doctor tells Nadezda as he takes the box of assorted chocolates and places them on the side.
A WINTER WALK IN SOFIA

A young man, with an apron, stained from a just filleted fresh fish, storms out of the back entrance of a small restaurant to a crossing of Stamboliyski boulevard, sits in front and lights a cigarette
THE EXAM, an excerpt from a short story

This text was created during the online creative writing workshop Character + Setting lead by Josip Novakovic and organised by the Elizabeth Kostova Foundation on 8-14 November 2021

VAGABOND VIDEO

A museum dedicated mainly to cars from the Communist period of Bulgaria has become a tourist attraction in the mountainous town of Peshtera.
It offers an eclectic collection - beyond Soviet and East German vintage cars it includes toys, maps of Soviet underground networks, posters for Bulgaria's past military alliance with Moscow, pre-1989 gadgets, and much more.
Yet the museum's curator believes that this is an inspiring venue for educating Bulgarian schoolchildren about their country's recent past.
In collaboration with MyCentury.tv

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